Setting Out: Hardening Off

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Posted by Gardener Handbook | Posted in Gardening Tips, Park Seed, Tips and Techniques | Posted on 22-02-2012

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Setting Out, continued…

 

Hardening Off

Transplants that have been raised indoors are soft, and must get used to sun, wind and rain. It is best to let them “harden off” gradually for several days before planting in the garden.

Move the trays of transplants outdoors to a sheltered, shady place out of the wind. Keep them well-watered. (If they wilt anyway, bring them back inside until they perk up again.) Bring back indoors each evening.

After two days, leaves and stems should be stronger. Move transplants to a half-sun location for 2 more days. When they are tough enough to go through the day without wilting, it’s time to plant them in the garden or container.

Setting Out: Plant Condition

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Posted by Gardener Handbook | Posted in Gardening Tips, Park Seed, Tips and Techniques | Posted on 21-02-2012

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Setting Out

 

Plant Condition

It’s best to set your transplants out before they begin to bloom, since a young garden plant needs its energy to grow roots, not flowers. If your transplants set flower buds or bloom before planting out time, disbud them or cut off the blooms.

Plants are definitely ready for the garden when roots grow through the bottoms of their containers, but you can hold most types up to 4 more weeks before planting, if you must wait for ideal planting weather. While each type is different, a good rule of thumb is to set plants out when 2 to 4 inches tall. Plants for container gardens should be set out at this same stage.

Care After Transplanting: Pinching

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Posted by Gardener Handbook | Posted in Gardening Tips, Park Seed, Tips and Techniques | Posted on 20-02-2012

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Care After Transplanting, continued…

 

Pinching

If plants get too tall before planting time, pinch them back. Leave plenty of foliage and some branches so growth can continue, but pinch off just above a lower leaf or branch (see diagram). A small pair of pruning shears does a better job than fingers.

 

Care After Transplanting: Watering and Feeding

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Posted by Gardener Handbook | Posted in Gardening Tips, Park Seed, Tips and Techniques | Posted on 17-02-2012

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Care After Transplanting, continued…

 

Watering and Feeding

After seedlings are established, with healthy roots spreading through the soil, they will need a drier medium and less frequent, but more concentrated feedings. Let the surface of the soil become dry to the touch between waterings (lower layers should still never dry out). Feed once a week using a water soluble fertilizer.

Care After Transplanting: Growing On

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Posted by Gardener Handbook | Posted in Gardening Tips, Park Seed, Tips and Techniques | Posted on 16-02-2012

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Care After Transplanting, continued…

Growing On

Growing on to garden size plants may take only a week or it may take several months, depending on species. Your seed packet instructions and the Park Seed Catalog’s Cultural Index give detailed information about each type of plant.

Care After Transplanting

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Posted by Gardener Handbook | Posted in Gardening Tips, Park Seed, Tips and Techniques | Posted on 15-02-2012

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Care After Transplanting

 

Seedlings may droop or wilt somewhat right after transplanting, if some roots were broken or disturbed. To speed recovery, keep them quite moist and out of the sun for 2 days, then give then filtered sun or half-day sun for 2 days, after which they should be ready for bright light.

Growing Seedlings: Transplanting from Park’s Bio-Domes, Park-Starts®, One-Steps or Cell Trays

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Posted by Gardener Handbook | Posted in Bio Dome, Gardening Tips, Park Seed, Tips and Techniques | Posted on 14-02-2012

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Growing Seedlings, continued…

 

Transplanting from Park’s Bio-Domes, Park-Starts®, One-Steps or Cell Trays

If you have sown seed into one of these kits, you can skip most of the steps for transplanting. As  the seedlings grow larger and begin to touch, either space them further apart, if possible, or plant them into approiate sized pots to avoid transplant shock. Or you may set them directly in the garden if the weather is right.

A Glossary of Garden Terms

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Posted by admin | Posted in Annuals, Bulbs, Gardening Tips, Heirloom Seed, Herbs, Hybrid Seed, Organic, Perennials, Tips and Techniques | Posted on 13-02-2012

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A Glossary of Garden Terms

How many times have you read a gardening article, looked at a website or catalog and wondered, “What does that mean?” Thanks to NGB Member Park Seed, we’ve excerpted their list of garden terms for your referral during the upcoming garden season.

Acidic Soil     
A soil that has a pH below 7, typical of clay soils. Azaleas, camellias, dogwoods and roses like acidic soils.
Alkaline Soil     
A soil that has a pH of 7 or higher.
Annual Plant     
A plant living one year or less, usually planted in the spring after the last frost. During this time, the plant grows, blooms, produces seeds, and dies.
Balled & Burlapped     
The roots of the plant have soil attached and are held in place with burlap or some other material.
Bare Root     
The roots of the plant are bare, with no soil.
Biennial     
Of two seasons duration, from germination to maturity and death, usually developing vegetative growth the first year and flowering, fruiting, and dying the second year.  Biennials need exposure to winter temperatures to trigger flowering or fruit production the second year.
Bulb     
A resting stage of a plant that is usually formed underground and consists of a short stem base bearing one or more buds enclosed in fleshy leaves and buds (tulip, daffodil, etc).
Corm     
A rounded, thick modified underground stem base bearing membranous or scaly leaves and buds (gladiolus, crocus, etc).
Crown     
The base of the plant, where the stem and root meet.
Cultivar     
A cultivated variety or strain that originated and has persisted under human cultivation.
Deadheading     
Removing the dead blossoms.  If a plant is termed “self cleaning,” the blossoms fall off on their own.  Deadheading usually extends the blooming season.
Deciduous     
A plant that loses its leaves seasonally, usually in the fall.
Determinate     
The growth of a plant stops at a certain height (usually in reference to tomatoes).
Dormancy     
A period in the life cycle of a plant where it is “asleep” and not actively growing.  Dormancy is brought about by cool temperatures and shorter day length.
Evergreen     
A plant that stays green year-round.
Floriferous     
Bearing flowers/blooming freely.
Germination     
The sprouting of a seed and the commencement of growth.  Also used to describe the starting of plants from seeds.
Grafted Plant     
The top (desirable) part of the plant is grafted onto rootstock, usually of a hardier or less rare plant.
Heirloom Seed     
Mostly open-pollinated seed that have been planted and passed down for generations. Most lack disease resistance.
Herbaceous     
A plant that dies back to the ground in winter and returns again in the spring.
Herbicide     
A chemical used to destroy undesirable plants and vegetation.
Hybrid Seed     
The result of cross-pollination of parents that differ in size, color, taste, or other traits.  Seeds from hybrid plants cannot be saved and used again, as they will revert back to one of the parents.
Indeterminate     
The plant continues growing until pinched or killed by frost (opposite of determinate). These plants usually require staking.
Organic Seed     
A seed that has been grown and harvested without being exposed to any inorganic chemicals, fertilizers, hormones, etc.Pelleted Seed     
Small seed, such as petunias or pentas, that have been coated with an inert material such as clay to make them easier to handle.
Perennial     
A plant that lives for three or more seasons. Perennials may not bloom the first season planted, especially ones that are shipped bareroot.
Rhizome     
A somewhat elongated, usually horizontal subterranean plant stem that is often thickened by deposits of reserved food material that produces shoots above and below the roots (bearded iris).
Rootstock     
Root system of a more common or hardy variety that is used to graft a more desirable variety onto, usually roses and/or standard forms.
Self-Pollinating     
Plants that do not require pollen from another plant in order to produce fruit.
Semi-Evergreen     
A plant that drops its leaves in cold areas but keeps at least some of them in milder zones (typically zones 7~11).
Standard     
A shrub or herb grown with an erect main stem so that it forms or resembles a tree.
Sucker     
Undesirable growth coming from the rootstock of a grafted plant.
Treated Seed     
Seed that have been treated with an insecticide or fungicide to aid in preventing soil insects or disease from destroying the seed prior to germination.
Tuber     
A short, fleshy, usually underground stem bearing minute scaly leaves, each of which bears a bud in its axil and is potentially able to produce a new plant (iris potato, caladium, tuberose begonia).

Growing Seedlings: Transplanting Seedlings from a Seedling Flat or Seedbed

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Posted by Gardener Handbook | Posted in Gardening Tips, Seed, Tips and Techniques | Posted on 10-02-2012

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Growing Seedlings, continued…

 

Transplanting Seedlings from a Seedling Flat or Seedbed

When seeds have been sown close together in a flat, the seedlings grow together rather quickly. They soon become overcrowded, tall and spindly (this is why seeds should be sown thinly to begin with) from stretching in competition for light. After 4 true leaves have developed, and as soon as they begin to touch one another, it’s time to transplant seedlings into pots or into cell inserts, where they will have more space.

Follow these steps in transplanting:

1. Water the seedling flat (from bottom) one hour before transplanting, so that seedlings can “drink their fill”. This means a complete soak, so that soil is wet, not just moist.

2. Moisten the soil, or the One-Step into which you’ll transplant, and fill the pots or cell inserts you’ll be growing in to within ¼ inch of the brim. Set pots in a tray. (If you’re transplanting directly to a seedbed, make sure it’s moist, soft and shaded.)

3. Dibble the soil in each pot by making a hole large enough to fit the seedling’s roots. Push the end of a pot label or a pencil an inch or so into the grow mix and move it back and forth to open the hole.

4. Gently remove seedlings from flat. Use a fork or tongue depressor (as pictured) to loosen grow mix and pry the seedlings apart, as you lift them from the seedling flat. Pull them apart carefully. A small ball of soil should cling to the roots.

NOTE: Handle seedlings by the leaves or the soil ball around the roots, not by the stems, in order to avoid injury to the stem.

5. Place the root ball into the hole you have made for it. Gently firm the soil around the roots, then fill in the hole so that the soil surface is level in the pot. Cover only the roots and the base of the stem, not the leaves.

6. Label the pots with the name of the plant.

7. Thoroughly soak with fertilizer solution, from the bottom, the same way as for a seedling flat.

 

 

 

 

Growing Seedlings: Feeding

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Posted by Gardener Handbook | Posted in Gardening Tips, Park Seed, Tips and Techniques | Posted on 09-02-2012

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Growing Seedlings, continued…

 

Feeding

You can begin feeding your seedlings even before they emerge! When you water your seedling flats, simply use a weak fertilizer solution instead of plain water. We recommend 1/4 teaspoon of Park-Start® Fertilizer per gallon of water at room temperature. Your seedlings should be kept looking healthy, with a strong green color. Yellowish green may mean more nitrogen is needed, so fertilize a little more (increase gradually). A “burned” look may indicate too much fertilizer is present. Water from the top in this case, using plain water, until it runs out of the bottom, thus removing excess fertilizer salts. Then reduce feeding rates.