Happy Gardening!

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Posted by Gardener's Handbook | Posted in Gardening Tips, Park Seed, Tips and Techniques | Posted on 04-04-2012

We hope that our previous posts have provided you the information you need to have a successful and enjoyable garden. Other excellent sources of information include the book Park’s Success With Seeds (which gives even more in-depth instructions) and your county extension agent. And, as a member of the Park family of gardeners, you’re invited to write or call our Customer Service Department at 800-845-3369 for more information. 

Park’s Flower Planting Tips

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Posted by Gardener's Handbook | Posted in Gardening Tips, Park Seed, Seed, Tips and Techniques | Posted on 03-04-2012

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Ageratum

 

 Remove spent blooms to prolong flowering. Keep well-watered in hot, dry weather.

 
Alyssum, Sweet

 

 Shear plants back lightly to promote longer blooming period.

 
Aster

 

 To minimize the possibility of Aster Wilt, plant in a different part of your garden each year.

 
Begonia

 

 Bronze-leaved varieties do particularly well in sun. Keep foliage dry, provide good air circulation around plants.

 
Chrysanthemum

 

 Can also be set out as plants or rooted cuttings. Fertilize heavily. To promote bushy growth and more flowers, pinch out tips several times, up to July 15. Divide in spring.

 
Coleus

 

 Pinch off flower spikes to promote growth and attractive appearance.

 
Crape Myrtle

 

 Started indoors in March from seeds, will bloom in late July. Also available as plants. Hardy in South; in North, bring plants indoors over winter.

 
Dahlia

 

 Blooms first year from seed. Also available as tuberous roots that should be planted 6 inches deep after danger of spring frost. Taller varieties may need staking.

 
Daylily

 

 In South, seed sown in late summer will bloom following year — takes longer in the North. Most commonly grown from plants. Exceptionally easy to grow, weedproof and trouble free.

 
Delphinium

 

 Feed heavily. After blooming, cut back flowering stalks at base to induce fall reblooms.

 
Gerbera

 

 Seed started in January will bloom in June. Grow in full sun, providing ample moisture. North of Washington, D.C., pot up in fall and grow in a cool sunny window over winter.

 
Geranium

 

 Geranium seeds may germinate irregularly, so do not transplant from tray until germination is complete. Drench seedlings with approved fungicide.

 
Hollyhock

 

 Some bloom from seed the first year, others should be started in August for bloom the following season. Young plants perform best; keep a new supply coming from seed.

 
Impatiens

 

 One of the best of all annuals for shade. Starts blooming in 3 months from seed. Pinch back once or twice before setting out, thus promoting compact, bushy growth.

 
Lisianthus

 

 Move to full, bright light and 80-85° temperature after the small seedlings first become visible.

 
Marigold

 

 Plant overly tall or leggy seedlings deep,so they will root along the stems. Remove spent flowers for appearance and to promote more bloom. Easy!

 
Pansy

 

 Prepare planting site deeply, adding humus. Cool, shady, moist soil gives best results.

 
Pardancanda

 

 Will grow, even under adverse conditions. Use winter mulch north of Zone 7.

 
Portulaca

 

 May be started indoors or sown in the garden.

 
Primula

 

 Hardy sorts also available as plants. Prefer moist soil, high in humus.

 
Salvia

 

 Use reds for concentrated bright color; pastel shades do well in light shade. Drench seedlings with approved fungicide to prevent damping off.

 
Snapdragon

 

 Pinch back after blooming to promote a second flush of bloom.

 
Strawflower

 

 To preserve, cut when showing good color and hang upside down, where air circulation is good.

 
Sunflower

 

 Easily grown in sun. Large kinds provide edible seed for people or birds.

 
Vinca

 

 Periwinkles are excellent for foliage effect and flowers from June to frost. Both creeping and dwarf upright types are available.

 
Zinnia

 

 Plant where good air circulation is available.

 

Park’s Flower Plant Guide

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Posted by Gardener's Handbook | Posted in Gardening Tips, Park Seed, Seed, Tips and Techniques | Posted on 02-04-2012

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Park’s Vegetable Growing Tips (Q-Z)

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Posted by Gardener's Handbook | Posted in Gardening Tips, Park Seed, Seed, Tips and Techniques, Tomatoes, Vegetables | Posted on 30-03-2012

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Radish

 

 Harvest when crisp and mild (before roots become pithy). Excellent to interplant with slower germinating crops to mark rows.

 
Soybean

 

 Dust seed with Legume-Aid before sowing. Fertilize at planting time and again when plants are 8 to 10 inches high. Soybeans require a long, warm growing season. Harvest immature beans when pods are plump and seeds are full size but still green, or for dry use, pick when fully mature.

 
Spinach

 

 Does well in cool weather. Soil should be kept moist. Best in soil of nearly neutral pH.

 
Squash, Summer

 

 See Cucumber. If planting in hills, space hills 4 feet apart and thin to 2 plants per hill. Pick fruit when small (4 to 6 inches) for best flavor and continued production.

 
Squash, Winter

 

 See Cucumber. If planting in hills, space hills 4 to 6 feet apart, and thin to 2 plants per hill. Harvest after vines die or just before frost, when skin is tough. Cut squash, leaving 2 to 3 inches of stem attached to fruit and allow to cure with plenty of air circulation before storing under low humidity at 50 to 55° F.

 
Tomato

 

 Set plants deeper than in the original container. Tall or leggy plants can be planted by stripping away all but the top leaves, and laying the plant horizontally in a shallow trough, with only the upper leaves above the soil. Mulch, after the soil has warmed, to maintain even soil temperature and moisture. A light side-dressing of fertilizer may be applied when first blossoms appear. Soil should be well-limed before planting — this and even moisture levels will help prevent Blossom-End Rot. Avoid use of tobacco products near tomatoes. Select varieties with genetic resistance to disease. Harvest when red and juicy. At end of season, pick green tomatoes before frost, wrap in a single layer of newspaper and bring indoors to ripen.

 
Turnip

 

 Fertilize at planting time and again when plants are 4 inches tall. Keep well-watered. Harvest when roots are 2 to 3 inches across. Leaves are also highly edible when young.

 
Watermelon

 

 See Cucumber. If grown in hills, space hills 4 to 6 feet apart and thin to 2 plants per hill. Keep well-watered when growing, but on the dry side when fruit is ripening. Several clues indicate ripeness — thumping on the side of the fruit should produce a dull rather than a sharp sound; the side of the fruit touching the ground will turn from white or light yellow to gold, and the tendril next to the point of attachment of stem and vine will turn brown and die. Seedless watermelons require special care for good germination. They usually do best sown indoors and set out soon after germination. This allows control of moisture and temperature levels. To avoid disturbing the roots, sow seeds in individual Jiffy Pots or One-Steps®. Avoid excess water during germination. Allow sowing medium to drain for 24 hours before sowing and after sowing, cover with clear plastic to avoid having to rewater. Maintain a warm temperature; 85° F is best during germination, dropped to 75° F after growth emerges. Set out after 1 to 2 true leaves appear.

 

Park’s Vegetable Growing Tips (D-P)

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Posted by Gardener's Handbook | Posted in Gardening Tips, Park Seed, Peppers, Seed, Tips and Techniques, Vegetables | Posted on 29-03-2012

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Eggplant

 

 Easily damaged by cold temperatures. Fertilize at planting time and when fruits start to form. Harvest when relatively young and skins are very shiny.

 
Kale

 

 See Collards. Kale does not tolerate summer heat, but is extremely cold-tolerant.

 
Lettuce, Head

 

 Sow directly in the garden, or indoors for transplants. When transplanting, minimize shock by pinching or removing larger leaves. Fertilize at planting time, and again 4 weeks later. Harvest when centers are firm.

 
Lettuce, Leaf

 

  Fertilize at planting time and again 4 weeks later. Harvest entire plant or pick outside leaves when ready; new ones will form from the center.

 
Melon

 

 See Cucumber. Keep well-watered when growing, but on the dry side when ripening. Cantaloupes (Muskmelons) are ready when the stem slips easily from the melon with slight pressure. Honeydews and some Cantaloupes turn pale yellow or tan when ripe.

 
Okra

 

 Likes a long, warm growing season. May need to sow indoors 4 to 6 weeks before planting outdoors for northern areas. Fertilize at planting time, and again when 12 inches tall. Harvest pods when young and tender (3 to 4 inches long). Do not allow pods to mature or plants will cease production.

 
Onion

 

 Can also be planted from sets or transplants. Fertilize at sowing time. Use thinnings for green onions. When tops fall, pull onions and allow to dry before storing. In Zone 8 and further south, may be sown outdoors in fall for spring harvest.

 
Pea, Garden

 

 Dust with Legume-Aid before sowing. Plant taller varieties in a double row flanking a trellis, with 30 inches between each double row. Peas fresh from the garden have exceptional flavor. Harvest edible-podded types when young, before seeds form fully. Fertilize at planting time.

 
Pepper

 

 Fertilize lightly at planting time and again lightly after 6 weeks. Avoid heavy applications of fertilizer. Peppers can be harvested when mature and red or yellow, but are most often picked when green, as soon as the fruit is firm.

 
Pumpkin

 

 See Cucumber. Allow more space for pumpkins than for cucumbers or melons. When the desired number of fruit has set, end of vine can be pinched off to prevent additional fruit production and encourage large fruit size. Harvest when rind is hard enough it can’t be penetrated with a fingernail.

 

Park’s Vegetable Growing Tips (A-C)

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Posted by Gardener's Handbook | Posted in Corn, Gardening Tips, Park Seed, Seed, Tips and Techniques, Vegetables | Posted on 28-03-2012

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Bean, Pole Snap

 

 Dust seed with Legume-Aid. Fertilize when planting and again when 6 to 8 inches tall. Train on a trellis, tripod, fence or other support. Keep picked to encourage further production.

 
Bean, Bush Snap

 

 Dust seed with Legume-Aid. Fertilize at planting time and again when 6 to 8 inches tall. Keep picked to encourage further production.

 
Bean, Lima.

 

 Dust seed with Legume-Aid. Requires a longer, milder growing season than snap beans. Fertilize at planting time and again when plants are 6 to 8 inches tall.

 
Beet

 

 Thin soon after germination. Fertilize at sowing time and again when leaves are 3 to 4 inches tall. Dig when roots are 2 to 3 inches in diameter for best flavor. Tops are also edible.

 
Broccoli

 

 Set plants slightly deeper in garden than in container. Side-dress with fertilizer as buds begin to form. Harvest while heads are still tight.

 
Brussels Sprouts

 

 Does best as fall crop in warm climates. Cold tolerant. Break off lower branches as sprouts begin to form to encourage buds. As older sprouts are harvested (from the bottom up) and new ones form, break off more branches. Frost improves flavor.

 
Cabbage

 

 Set plants slightly deeper in garden than in container. Fertilize at setting out, and side-dress 4 weeks later. Harvest when heads are still tight.

 
Cabbage, Chinese

 

 See Cabbage. Heads grow more upright and cylindrical than regular cabbage. Excellent eaten cooked or raw in salads.

 
Carrot

 

 For best carrots, soil should be loose textured and cultivated deeply — otherwise grow round and short-rooted types. After germination, thin seedlings well. Fertilize when foliage is 6 to 8 inches high. Harvest when between finger thickness and 2 inches in diameter.

 
Cauliflower

 

 See Cabbage. Blanch by tying outer leaves over heads when they are 2 inches across.

 
Celery

 

 Requires cool growing season and rich, moist soil. Set plant in a trench 4 to 5 inches deep and fill in with soil as plant grows. If further blanching (whitening) is desired, hill plants by mounding additional soil around their bases. Apply soluble plant food every 2 to 3 weeks.

 
Collards

 

 Sow directly outdoors in early spring or in late summer for the fall garden. Can also be sown indoors in mid to late winter for transplanting outdoors in early spring. Especially good as fall crop since frost will improve flavor. Withstands both cold and hot weather. Fertilize at planting time. Harvest entire plant or pick leaves as needed.

 
Corn, Sweet

 

 To ensure pollination, plant several rows together in a block, rather than in 1 long row. Side-dress with fertilizer when 8 inches high. Keep well-watered, especially from tasseling time to picking. Hill corn plants by pushing a few inches of soil up around the base of the plants when they are fertilized. This provides stability, but take care not to disturb the roots. Do not remove suckers. Regular sweet corn, super-sweet, sugar-enhanced, and popcorn should be isolated from each other to prevent cross-pollination. To isolate, plant at least 200 feet away or at a two week delay.

 
Cucumber

 

 Sow in rows or in hills, 3 to 4 feet apart with 3 plants per hill, or start as transplants in Jiffy Pots 2 weeks before setting outside for an early crop. Fertilize at planting time. Keep well-watered and cultivate carefully. Harvest when young and green; if they are allowed to mature (and turn yellow), the plant will stop producing.

 


Park’s Vegetable Planting Guide

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Posted by Gardener's Handbook | Posted in Gardening Tips, Park Seed, Tips and Techniques, Vegetables | Posted on 27-03-2012

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Next Year’s Garden: Raised Beds

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Posted by Gardener's Handbook | Posted in Gardening Tips, Park Seed, Tips and Techniques | Posted on 26-03-2012

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Next Year’s Garden, continued…

 

Raised Beds

   Raised beds make gardening easier! As you build up your soil by adding compost, the bed’s surface will rise above ground level. Surround such a bed with some material to hold the soil in place — you’ll have a raised bed. Common edging materials include: timbers, blocks, bricks, boards and rocks. Raising a bed makes soil deeper. It looks neat. And the edging keeps lawn grass and other weeds from invading the bed. Better drainage permits earlier planting in spring.

 

Next Year’s Garden: Digging

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Posted by Gardener's Handbook | Posted in Gardening Tips, Park Seed, Tips and Techniques | Posted on 23-03-2012

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Next Year’s Garden, continued…

Digging

   Proper digging, or tilling, mixes in organic matter and helps to develop a deep, loose, mellow environment for plant roots. Small gardens can be turned with a spade or spading fork; a rototiller will greatly aid in preparing a larger garden. To be worked, a handful of soil should crumble when squeezed. Dig soil to a minimum of 6-8 inches deep. Initial “double-digging”, to 16 inches, is the ideal way to prepare a good garden . . . it breaks up compacted soil even below the reach of tiller tines and mixes subsoil and topsoil.

Next Year’s Garden: Green Manure Crops

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Posted by Gardener's Handbook | Posted in Gardening Tips, Park Seed, Tips and Techniques | Posted on 22-03-2012

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Next Year’s Garden, continued…

 

Green Manure Crops

Cover crops, turned back into the soil, are another means of adding organic matter, and thus improving soil texture. Also, as they decompose, they release nutrients. Fall-sown crops such as annual Ryegrass can be grown over winter and dug into the soil in early spring. Do this at least four weeks prior to planting your garden.

Other good winter cover crops include some legumes such as Winter Vetch, Crimson Clover and Austrian Winter Peas. Legumes have the advantage of adding more nitrogen to the soil. Be sure to till 8 weeks ahead of growing season so nitrogen is released, not tied up in the process of decomposing the cover crop.

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