Thanks Bob, We’ll Miss You!

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Posted by Ln | Posted in Dates to Remember | Posted on 16-09-2011

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Bob inspecting seedlings in his bio dome

Bob inspecting seedlings in his Bio Dome

Today we say farewell to one of our finest.
Mr Bob Hill has been a horticulturist at Park Seed for 11 years. Many of you may have spoken with him if you called in to our customer service with questions about your plants and how to help them thrive.

We wish him the best on his new adventure called “retirement” and would like to share with you a few words from him & those that worked closest with him.

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Bio-Dome Instructions

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Posted by Lynne | Posted in Uncategorized | Posted on 16-09-2011

Bio Dome Instructions

1. Remove the Park-Start or Bio Dome Styrofoam blocks from the plastic wrap, keeping upright so that the plugs do not fall out. The plugs are ready to sow as they are.  If sponges have dried, they will have shrunk in size and will need to be re-moistened.  You can accomplish this by filling the green under tray with water and allowing the Styrofoam block to sit in the water until the sponges have absorbed enough moisture.

2. For most seed types, place two seeds into the pre-dibbled hole at the top of each plug. Very tiny seeds should be sown on the surface of the plug, not in the hole. Seeds do not need covering in the Park-Starts or Bio Dome plugs. Each plug provides the optimum environment for germination.

3. Place the germination units in a favorable location as indicated on the seed packet.

4. Re-moisten plugs by sprinkling lightly over the top of the Styrofoam block, or by partially filliing the under-tray with 1/4″ to 1/2″ inch of water.  Do not flood with heavy top wtering, which may dislodge seeds.

5. Place clear plastic dome on green under-tray at this time, closing vents to retain high-humidity.  Open these vents only after seedlings have emerged and are just above the surface of the plugs.  Keep moist until seedlings emerge by retaining 1/4″ to 1/2″ inch water level in the under-tray.  Because of their composition, the Bio-Sponges retain just the right amount of water, so there is no need to provide additional moisture. 

6. After seedlings emerge, provide more light by moving Bio Dome to a bright window, under lights,  or protected area outside.  Mix a weak fertilizer solution, following directions on the free fertilizer packet included with your order.  Water with this fertilizer solution as often as necessary to keep plugs moist by simply retaining the 1/4″ to 1/2″ inch level in the under-tray.

7.  If you have double-sown, keep only the stronger seedling in each plug. Remove the other seedling by cutting the stem at the top of the plug with sharp scissors.

8. You may now remove the clear plastic dome to allow more fresh air to circulate around the seedlings and to harden them to the environment before transplanting.  Increase the light levels to prevent the seedlings from stretching and producing a weak plant. Brighter light will help keep the seedling short and stout.

9. Transplant seedlings when they have 2 or more sets of true leaves.  Another way to tell if your plugs are ready to transplant is to push a plug up from the bottom and check to see if it has white roots reaching to the bottom of the plug.  To remove plugs for transplanting, first water if they are dry, then push the plug up from the bottom and transplant to desired location.  Whether transplanting into a container or directly into the ground, do not allow the planted plugs to to be exposed to the air.  Be sure they are slightly covered with soil.

10. If weather or timing delays your transplanting of young plants, prop the trays up on one side at an angle (about 1/2″-1″inch) to allow air circulation beneath them.  This helps to build a stronger root system.  You will need to apply the fertilizer solution to the top of the Styrofoam blocks as seedlings dry out, while it is propped up.

11. The Park Bio Done Seed Starter is also an excellent system for rooting  jumbo cuttings.  Use the system the same as you would for starting seeds, making sure the Bio Sponges are moist by placing 1/4″ to 1/2″ inch of water in the green under-tray.  Stick cuttings into the dibbled holes.  Apply a light misting with a mist bottle over the cuttings if they should wilt during the rooting process.  The clear dome should be left on at all times with the vents closed to retain humidity until cuttings are rooted and don’t wilt.  Once cuttings have rooted, you can open vents or completely remove the dome if the Bio Starter is placed in a protected area.  Push the rooted cuttings up from the bottom to check on rooting progress, when they are ready to be transplanted, plant in a desired location.

Deer Resistant Plants

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Posted by Lynne | Posted in Uncategorized | Posted on 15-09-2011

 

 Deer-resistant Plants

The following list includes many plants that deer do not prefer to eat. Certain plants may be sampled but not destroyed by deer. Take note that a large population of hungry deer will eat almost any plant available.

PERENNIALS GROUND COVERS VINES

Achillea filipendula

Aconitum

Anemone

Amsonia

Monarda

Myosotis

Omphalodes

Oriental Poppy

Aegopodium

Ajuga reptans

Armeria maritima

Arctostaphylos uva-ursi

Akebia

Bignonia

Clematis

Gelsemium

Artemesia

Aquilegia

Penstemon

Phlox paniculata

Chrysogonum

Convallaria

Honeysuckle

Campsis

Asclepias

Aster

Platycodon

Physostegia

Crown Vetch (Coronilla)

Cotoneaster Species

Wisteria

Climbing Hydrangea

Astilbe Pyrethrum Daisy Festuca Polygonum
Baptisia

Brunnera

Campanula

Peony

Primula

Rudbeckia

Gaultheria

Hedera helix

Hypericum calycinum

Parthenocissus

Trachelospermum

jasminoides

Caryopteris

Catananche

Salvia

Scabiosa

Juniper

Lamium

Schizophragma
Chrysanthemum Sedum Liriope  
Cimicifuga Shasta Daisy Mazus  
Coreopsis Sisyrinchium Phlox subulata  
Dahlia Stachys Pachysandra  
Delphinium Tiarella Sagina  
Dianthus Tricyrtis Verbena  
Dicentra Trollius Vinca minor  
Digitalis Verbascum    
Echinacea Veronica    
Echinops

Erigeron

 

TREES

SHRUBS

Abeliophyllum

 

Hibiscus

Eryngium Acer (Maple) Andromeda Kerria
Eupatorium Cercis (Redbud) Berberis Hydrangea–ONLY
Euphorbia Cornus (Dogwood) Buddleia davidii Oakleaf, & PeeGee
Gaillardia Corylus Buxus Leucothoe
Geranium, Hardy Crataegus (Hawthorn) Calycanthus Mahonia
Gerbera Fagus (Beech) Chaenomeles Nandina
Gypsophila

Helleborus

Ginkgo

Magnolia

Chamaecyparis

Cotinus

Philadelphus

Potentilla

Heuchera

Heucherella

Metasequoia

Morus (Mulberry)

Corylus

Cotoneaster

Pyracantha

Spiraea

Hibiscus

Kniphofia

Picea (Spruce)only White (glauca)

& Norway (abies)

Daphne species

Forsythia

Syringa

Viburnum

Ligularia Quercus (Oak) Fothergilla Yucca
Lobelia Salix (Willow) Juniperus species, EXCEPT  
Malva Tsuga (Hemlock) J. virginiana  
 

HERBS

Borage

Basil

 

ANNUALS

Ageratum Nasturtium

Alyssum Marigold

BULBS

Allium Lycoris

Amaryllis Galanthus

Anemone Fritillaria

 
Dill

Lavandula

Bachelor’s Button Nicotiana

California Poppy Petunia

Calla Lily Babiana

Canna Muscari

 
Oregano Lantana Snapdragon Scilla Caladium  
Peppermint Lobelia Salvia Leucojum Convallaria  
Rosemary Morning Glory Sunflower Narcissus Crocus  
Santolina Zinnia Gladiolus  
Spearmint      
Stachys (Lamb’s Ear)      
Teucrium (Germander)    
Thymus (Thyme)  

GRASSES

 
  Cortaderia (Pampas Grass)

Festuca

Miscanthus

Pennisetum

 

New Contest – Find the Tomato on Our Website!

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Posted by Ln | Posted in Contest, Park Seed, Tomatoes | Posted on 06-09-2011

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Find Me!Ah yes, Labor Day is here, the kids are going back to school, autumn is (almost) in the air…. it’s time for the annual Find the Tomato Contest on Park Seed! For those of you who haven’t participated in the past, it’s very simple:

We’ve placed this drawing of a tomato somewhere on our website. If you should happen to run across it, click on it. You’ll be taken to a screen where you will be given instructions on entering our drawing for a $25 Park Seed Gift Certificate! On Wednesday, September 28, we will randomly select one random winner from all who have spotted the wily little veggie fruit, and send them their gift certificate. Good luck and happy hunting!

Cool Colors for Hot Summers

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Posted by Stephanie | Posted in Cut Flowers, Perennials | Posted on 05-09-2011

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I love the reds, oranges, pinks, and whites of many great sun gardens.  There’s something about cool blues, greens, and lavenders, though, that just seems to explode in a bright, hot summer garden.  Cool colors draw the eye and add fantastic contrast, especially in hotter areas.  They have a pleasant calming effect, and they very often shimmer beautifully in the low light of a summer evening, be it moon or fire.

Sacbiosa Fama Deep Blue

Pincushion Flower Fama Deep Blue

For brilliant blues that stand up to serious heat, you can’t beat Pincushion Flower Fama Deep Blue.  It’s a heavy bloomer with large, bright blue flowers that make long-lasting cuts.  It grows well in full sun, and thrives all summer, even into zone 9. 

Pair it with it’s white counterpart Pincushion Flower Fama White , or let the blue play off the vivid yellow of Rudbeckia Goldsturm Strain.